¡Hacia Santiago, con fotos, fotos y más fotos!

¡Hola! Here is the latest installment of los Stuhan: We are currently in Sárria, the last of the larger towns on the road to Santiago de Compostela. However, this is still rural Galicia (the province of northwestern Spain), with farmhouses and pastures that lend the area a special charm. This part of Spain is lejos (far) from the sunny beaches of the south. The weather here is more like Ireland, it has been wet and rainy since we arrived. Everything is green, and when it´s not raining there is still a bit of moisture suspended in the air. Our progress has been substaintial, until today, as I (Maggie) am suffering from a minor muscle ache and tendon inflammation. Fortunately, last night we had dinner with an Irish doctor and an Australian massage physiotherapist. From our Irish friend we got lots of good advice. From the Aussie, I got a couple of free deep tissue massages. They hurt like hell, I hope that they pay off over the next few days! Here is a quick summary of our progress: Day 1 - Ponferrada a Cacabelos (21k) Our first taste of walking. We were quite optimistic for the first 10k or so, then we realized that there were no signs (the path is marked with arrows and shells). Additionally, as this was our first day, each subsequent kilometer became exponentially more difficult to endure than the last. It was a relief to pull into town and find clean showers and private bunks. Day 2 - Cacabelos a Vega de Valcarce (22k) Okay, these packs are getting heavy! We enjoyed a lovely early morning walk through Spanish vineyards that evoked images of Napa Valley. This second day was also the beginning of our ascent of the mountains that seperate Galicia from the meseta (the large plain of central Spain where it doesn´t rain). Now that you have repeated that to yourself a few times, we will continue. Day 3 - Vega de Valcarce a O Cebreiro (13k) Now, before you go thinking that we took it easy, this was our hardest day yet! The toil was all uphill. Due to the rigor of the climb and the developing injury/blisters, we had little energy to devote to enjoying the scenery. That being said, it was the most beautiful day yet. We arrived at a tiny stone village at the summit just after noon. There was Celtic music playing and you could be forgiven for thinking that you had arrived in Ireland. This part of Spain was the stopover for the Celts before heading over to Ireland. The tradition is still strong here, and they participate in all of the international Celtic games and festivals. In the village we continued to make friends from all over the world, replacing people like the zippy little Italian guy who does 40k a day and with whom we could never keep pace. These encounters are one of the little delights that make the camino our own "moveable feast." Well, that and the menu specials that come with a bottle of wine, two courses, dessert and cafe con leche, all of which, are necessary to sustain the weary pilgrim. Day 4 - O Cebreiro a Sárria (46k) Does this seem like a super human feat? Possibly a little unrealistic for your beloved pilgrims? Actually, it was done by taxi. Due to schedule concerns and the injuries sustained, it was necessary to advance a bit to make it to Santiago on time. This also gives us a much needed day of rest. It is still 120k to the apostle´s city, which we will hopefully begin at sunrise tomorrow. In order to finish the camino and receive a full plenary indulgence for our sins, we must do the last 100k completely by foot and get our pilgrim´s passports stamped at least twice daily on our journey. If we are not able to finish it in this way, we will only get our certificate of completion and a coupon for a free meal in Dante´s Inferno. Please wish us luck, and remember, everything depends on this. (Well, that and Spain winning against Ukraine tomorrow. Otherwise, the bar that we are watching the game in may go up in smoke.) ¡Hasta luego!

El Camino de Santiago

O.k., this will be a quick one as the internet services are pretty limited out here--so no pictures this time. We covered 20km by foot today, it would have only been 15km without the ¨shortcut¨ (seriously). Our bodies are a little weary, but our spirits are high and we are looking forward to getting going again first thing in the morning. Between what our feet and backs are telling us, and the impending rain, we aren´t sure what progress we will make tomorrow.

While the trip is challening, everyone along the way is more than willing to help. We had cars slowing and drivers pointing us in the correct direction at forks in the road. Also, there has been no shortage of old Spanish men and women who have been willing to stop and talk to us, taking a short break from their own caminos.

We will try to check in again soon and provide more of an update. All our love.

Bienvenidos a León

Well, the picture doesn´t do it justice, but imagine rounding a corner at night and seeing this brilliantly illuminated gothic cathedral...amazing! This is the kind of sight that the pilgrims look forward to. We see people arriving all day long with backpacks, walking sticks, and expressions of joy and relief.

We´re excited to be getting underway tomorrow morning. We went to the Post Office today and shipped all of our extra baggage ahead to Santiago de Compostela. Hopefully they won´t lose it like Iberia did on the way here (we got it within 24 hours, but man did I need a change of socks)!

We were also lucky to get a special tour of León when we arrived. A professor of mine from ASU was here visiting his parents and we met up the night we got here. We enjoyed a late night stroll (we met at 11:00 pm) and sat at a café full of locals. He and his family took us around and we saw the wall around the old city that dates from Roman times, a romanesque church on a cobblestone square, and a more contempoarary building designed by Gaudí.

The charm of this city is difficult to communicate in a short description like this. It is a very Spanish town, bereft of large-scale tourism apart from the humble pilgrims that pass through as they follow their path, marked by sea shells and arrows.

We went to the convent yesterday and got our pilgrim´s passports which are stamped along the way as proof of progress. The love and exuberance shown by the volunteer who helped us demonstrated the piety and passion that is found in the pilgrim community. Tonight we are going back to receive a blessing from the sisters that will inaugurate our journey. Our excitement is palpable.

We send everyone our love, please wish us ¡buena suerte!

Las Canarias parte 2

Our trip to the Canary Islands has drawn to a close...here are some of the highlights. Dining and dancing in a cave bar, an absolutely smashing time! The indigenous people, customs, and food of the islands are reflected in some of the more remote areas and are well worth enduring the narrow roads to get there. This is a cave house! ->

On our last full day on the island we made it into Maspalomas, still a tourist spot, but also a historical one with an old lighthouse and stunning beaches. There is an area of sand dunes along the beach that would nearly make you believe you were in the middle of the Sahara, of course we were only about 20 miles from Africa. The sand was abundant and conducive to building fascinating castles and scenes, including the Last Supper a la Sahara.



We are currently in Leon, which comes from 'legion,' not 'lion,' as this was once an old Roman outpost. We look forward to exploring the city, the old wall, the (Roman) baths, the renowned Cathedral, and all the other charming things, as I am sure there will be many. This is also OUR first stop along the Camino de Santiago Compostela. Last night we met some young people who had already been walking for a month and were taking a well deserved break. By local estimates it should take us, and them, about 8 to 10 days to reach our final destination. I think, that is I hope, that we are hearty enough to make it. We will wish ourselves a good trip and all of you happiness and health! Until later, we love you all!

N.B. Comments are now working for those of you who inquired. They are added after we review them, talk about a police state!

Desde las Canarias

Hello! Here we are in the Canary Islands, enjoying some well earned down-time. Of course, that is after the flight delay in Chicago, that lead to the missed flight in Spain, that lead to three service counters in Madrid, and a late-night arrival at our hotel. It was only about 30 hours of travel, altogether.

So, these pictures are from our trip across the island yesterday. In the distance behind me you can see the volcano, Teide, that forms one of the other islands. The landscapes are pretty incredible.

The resort is beautiful and the weather couldn´t be better! As we are surrounded by other tourists, namely English and German, we have not had much opportunity to stretch our Spanish legs yet. I am sure that the proper humility, for me (Maggie), will set in when we arrive back on the mainland.

We are happy to have each other and love spending time together...we manage to keep from taking ourselves too seriously. For instance, when you find that you have locked yourself out on your balcony...

Look forward to further postitings in the near future ; )
We love you all! James and Maggie